Birds’ beaks come in many different shapes and sizes from the long beak of water fowl to the short pointed beak of insect eaters. What is common amongst all birds is that the shape and size is usually related to the type of food they eat.  Even the hookbill beak of lorikeets is more slender to easily puncture the fruit and access the nectar that make up the majority of their diet.  Whereas, the large Macaws beaks can crack the hardest shell on nuts with ease. 

Anatomy of a Parrot’s Beak

Birds, like mammals, have two jaws, the upper is the maxilla and the lower is the mandible. Since the bone structure of a beak is known anatomically as the rostrum, the scientific terms are the rostrum maxillare and rostrum mandibulare.  The rostrum has grooves and pits where blood-vessels and nerves are located.

To make it even more confusing the rostrum is covered with a lightweight sheath made of keratin called the rhamphotheca.  Just like our fingernails, it is constantly growing and depending upon the species, can grow from one to three inches a year.  The portion of the rhamphotheca covering the maxilla is called the maxillary rhamphotheca or rhinotheca, and that covering the mandible is the mandibular rhamphotheca or gnatotheca.

The proximal portion of the beak, that closest to the bird, contains the blood-vessels and nerve endings.  The distal portion of the beak, toward the tip, is almost entirely keratin and does not sense pain.  Thus we are able to file the tip without causing any discomfort to our Parrot.  The blood-vessels and nerve endings will extend down the beak if it overgrows.

The nostrils, or nares, are located at the junction between the maxilla and the head.  In most parrots, a small, round, brown structure, called the operculum is found inside of the nostril. This is comprised of cartilage and should not be mistaken for an obstruction or foreign body, such as a seed.  Knowing how the nares and operculum should look in a healthy Parrot is important to help you determine when an infection occurs.  I hope you will all take a closer look at your Parrots to see what their operculum looks like.

In Parrots and a few other birds there is a fleshy slightly swollen band at the top of the rhinotheca that contains the nares known as the cere.  It is highly sensitive and may be feathered. The cere on Budgies is very prominent and as they mature will change colour depicting their sex.  Who would have guessed; a blue cere for male and pinkish cere for female.

There is a craniofacial hinge or joint between the maxilla and frontal portion of the skull.  The commissure normally refers to the junction of maxilla and the mandible (upper and lower jaw).

The fleshy area under the lower mandible is called the interramal region or space.  This is where the tongue and related structures are nestled.  It appears as if a portion of the lower mandible is missing.  Parrots can get split rings and other open hooks caught through the Interramal region causing them a great deal of stress while attempting to release it.

Most of us simply refer to the upper and lower jaw as the upper mandible and lower mandible.   

Healthy Beaks

For Parrots in the wild, a healthy beak is vital, however; in captivity a Parrot can live a long time with an unhealthy or deformed beak with the help of their caregiver.

We can all agree that a healthy Parrot has a healthy beak that they use to eat, climb, play, chew and shred.  If your Parrot's beak is causing it any discomfort, they will avoid using it.

What should a healthy beak look like?  The beak should be smooth, symmetrical, well formed with a proper bite, that is; correct alignment of the upper mandible and lower mandible.  The upper mandible should not extend too much beyond the bottom of the interramal region, the opening below the lower mandible.  It should be uniform in colour with minimal cracks or peeling.  It may be glossy depending upon the species or dull from fine powder as often found with Parrots that have significant powder down.  For example, a glossy beak on a Cockatoo may not be a sign of good health.

The most common beak conditions that we hear about are superficial Cracks, Dry / Peeling Beak, Overgrown Beak and Beak Injuries or Loss.  Most of these conditions can be avoided through proper nutrition and care. 

Cracks in the Beak:  Superficial cracks on the outer layer of the beak appear in the process of beak renewal. This is completely normal.

Dry / Peeling Beak:  Normally seen in conjunction with poor feather condition / long molts, a flaky beak suggests the Parrot's diet is deficient in the amino acid methionine.  Once nutrition has been improved, it may take up to 12 months for new feathering and beak growth.  Most legumes, though high in protein, are also low in methionine.  Bee Pollen is an excellent source of methionine as is sesame seeds, Brazil nuts, fish, meats, some whole grains, spinach, potatoes and boiled corn.

Overgrown Beak:  Most Parrots keep their beaks in proper form through eating a hard diet, grooming, climbing, chewing on toys, and rubbing the beak on a slightly abrasive surface.  An overgrown beak may result when a Parrot is deprived of these materials or it could be a symptom of health problems, including trauma to the beak, infection (common in finches), liver disease, lack of light exposure or Vitamin D3, crucial for overall health, nutritional imbalances such as Vitamin A, folic acid, Riboflavin (Vitamin B2), Niacin deficiency.  Overgrown beaks are common with Eclectus Parrots that have been fed a predominately seed based diet.  When an overgrown beak is not the lack of grooming aids such as a mineral block, lava rock, cuttlebone, almond in the shell or wood chew toys and branches, it should be seen by an avian veterinarian.

Beak Injuries or Loss:  Many Parrots may suffer beak injuries during the course of their lives. The upper and lower mandibles are vulnerable to trauma and can fracture as a result.  Such injuries are orthopaedic in nature. Severed beaks will not grow back or repair themselves.  The overgrowth of a severed beak will require regular filing.  Some beak repairs may be done with the same materials used by dentists or special acrylic.  Either method should always be done by an avian veterinarian.  If the injury was caused by a mate, never place the Parrot back with the mate.  The Parrot should be seen by a veterinarian immediately following the injury to ensure there is no other underlying damage and will likely require syringe or tube feeding until they are healthy enough to eat on their own.  Their food may need to be ground to crumbs for the rest of their life.

Unhealthy Beaks

The following unhealthy beak conditions, although they may have originated as a result of poor nutrition almost always require veterinary care and treatment.

Scissor Beak:  A condition where the upper mandible is not straight and does not meet correctly over the lower mandible.  It is occasionally present at the time of hatching but more frequently becomes apparent at 2-4 weeks of age.  It is rarely seen in parent raised birds.  It is thought that when the parent hooks onto the chick's beak during feeding, they help to promote normal beak development. Most cases require ongoing veterinary treatment.

Developmental Beak Abnormalities:  Slight bite deviations that are frequently seen in hand fed psittacines, possibly resulting from improper handling or feeding techniques or malnutrition.  An absolute reason for their occurrence however; can often not be explained.  Most often developmental abnormalities can be treated through physical therapy.

Prognathism: Also known as "Parrot Beak” occurs when the tip of the upper mandible rests on or inside the lower mandible. This developmental abnormality is most commonly seen in Cockatoos.  The cause is unknown but may include genetics, improper incubation, or hand-feeding techniques.  Like Scissor Beak it is rarely seen in parent raised birds.  Most cases require ongoing veterinary treatment.

Rotting / Disintegrating Beak:  A rotting or disintegrating beak can be caused by psittacine beak and feather disease, mite infestation or malnutrition.  When discovered, immediately quarantine your Parrot until being diagnosed by a veterinarian. 

Cere Hyperplasia:  Is the thickening of the area around the cere, brownish in colour.  If often affects Budgies.  It can progress to close up the nares causing beak breathing. It is not critical unless it begins to block the nasal passage.

Bruised / Discoloured Beak:  Bruising can occur if a Parrot's beak has been bitten or punctured by another bird, or injured its beak after flying into something.  However; when there is no obvious cause of bruising other causes need to be investigated.  A horn-coloured beak may reveal fungal infection seen through the translucent keratin.  Black beaks are much more difficult to assess, but textural changes may be visible.  Discolouration can also be caused by inflammation or infection in the beak area and required veterinary care.  If treatment requires antibiotics and/or antifungal therapy it should include supportive care, such as regular weighing and a daily supplement of psittacine-specific probiotics. 

Abnormal Growth on Beaks / Hard or Spongy:  Can be cause by liver disease, malnutrition / Vitamin D3 deficiency, soft-food diet, old trauma to the beak, Knemidocoptes mites (contagious and most likely to occur in outdoor aviary), highly contagious Polyomavirus or highly contagious Psittacine Beak and Feather Disease (PBFD).

Ways to Promote a Healthy Beak

We can help promote a healthy beak by ensuring our Parrots get all the nutrients they needs and detecting any problems early.  Here are some things you can include in your daily or weekly routine.

♦ Watch for cracks, overgrowth, or discoloration of the beak.
♦ Watch for inflammation, or discharge around the nares.
♦ Consult an avian veterinarian if you suspect that your Parrot's beak is growing unevenly.
♦ Provide chewing toys, any toy that requires work will help keep beaks trim.  These include mineral blocks, rocks, pieces with rope, wooden blocks and even plastic.
♦ Include different textures of perches, including perches specifically made for grooming the beak and nails.  Never use sandpaper perches.
♦ Provide your Parrot with the healthiest diet possible by using a formulated (pellet) diet that meet the specific needs of your Parrot species and reserving the seed and nuts for afternoon or evening treats. 
♦ Add bee pollen and psittacine-specific probiotics to their daily vegetable mix. 

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